
As my hosts in Taipei continuosly rhapsodized about the singing and dancing abilities of the island's aboriginal Bunun people I had this growing discomfort. Had I stumbled into an Asian ante-bellum South? Was I going to find little plaster jockey analogues standing outside people's driveways? Cigar shops with wooden Indians?
Then I heard a confident, vocally disciplined 12 year old girl hold her audience in two languages at the Taitung Prehistory Museum. Later, a festival of circle dances culminated in the eight-part harmony of a Bunun ritual. I knew why the fame of these people was celebrated not only across Taiwan but around the world.
A tour through the resort revealed that it was also an outdoor art garden with works ranging from bass relief argolite panels and restaurant tables, hand-carved chairs, caligraphied obelisks -- and massive pieces of modern art.
Even more surprising was to discover that the founder and president of the Bunun Aboriginal Foundation draws from his own post-polio experience to make their hotels, hot springs, theater, and shops accessible. The end result is not 100% independent access -- but the effort is comprehensive and uncommonly welcoming.

Here is Reverend White, founder of the Bunun Aboriginal Foundation posing with me following a presentation by the young people who he encourages to go out for an education but return to their homeland. From all appearances, he is quite successful.